Fairfield County, Connecticut, may not be very far from New York City—about an hour by train—but its beverage landscape is a world away. As in many other U.S. suburbs, consumers are more likely to purchase wine, beer, and spirits from a liquor store—known locally as a “package store”—than a boutique shop, thus relying on the more widely available, mass-produced bottles sold at these types of stores. At The Town Cellar, however, it’s a different story.
The downtown Darien shop exclusively sells beverages from small producers who farm organically, biodynamically, or sustainably. It’s owned by Lauren Hokin—who decided in 2021 to reopen her family’s decades-old package store in a new location, with a new name and concept—and run by general manager and buyer Michelle DeWyngaert.
DeWyngaert, a former hair and makeup artist for the film and television industries, solidified their farming-first stance on wine while working at both Lafayette and Chambers Street Wines in New York City. “I’ve always been a big environmentalist,” they say. “Wine is this wonderful vehicle for connecting people to farmers and getting people to care about the land in a way that’s kind of fun … and if you’re doing great farming, why are you covering it all up with additives or sulfur or 100 percent new oak?”
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Amidst the pandemic, DeWyngaert relocated closer to family in Connecticut and landed a “dream role” at The Town Cellar in October 2022. Hokin’s trust in DeWyngaert and philosophical alignment has been crucial: “In this role, I have this wonderful owner who is committed to supporting the kind of people I want to support and gives me free reign to not carry the big-brand names—as much as that feels kind of scary,” they say.
Though the transition out of New York has been a big one, DeWyngaert has had fun reaching a new audience. “The people out here haven’t had the same exposure to these kinds of wines that people in NYC have,” they say. When customers discover The Town Cellar, they’re often excited to have access to a thoughtful, curated selection of wines that differ from the selection at every other liquor store in the area.
Compiling this selection of wines, however, can be challenging in this market. Connecticut requires that importers and distributors pay $200 to register each wine label in their portfolios, which makes it cost prohibitive to bring in smaller cuvées. Luckily, that’s changing. “I have found some incredible distributors who are committed to the same things I’m committed to, and who are fighting for these small producers,” says DeWyngaert.
That includes producers of wines, beers, spirits, non-alcoholic alternatives, and even cannabis drinks, which are legal to sell at Connecticut liquor stores. DeWyngaert is focused on bringing discovery to shoppers without sacrificing accessibility. “As much as I want to stock the shop with things that are more obscure, I’m thinking about a specific customer with every wine I buy,” they say.
Not that there’s a stereotypical Town Cellar customer, however—people with all different preferences shop at the store. What unites these wine lovers is openness and curiosity, says DeWyngaert. “You’re not going to get the full advantage of the store unless you’re open to trying something new,” they say. When someone walks into The Town Cellar who only wants their go-to, big-brand bottle, it can be challenging to explain why the shop doesn’t stock it.
DeWyngaert is prepared for that challenge, though, armed with stories from the small producers they do carry—and often a taste from the bottle as well. “If they have that spark of curiosity, we will find what they love,” they say. “A good eight times out of 10, people walk out saying, ‘that was pretty great.’”
SevenFifty Daily sat down with DeWyngaert to discuss five bottles they sold recently, and why they’re great. (Listed are retail prices at The Town Cellar.)
Fossil & Fawn Pinot Gris 2022, Willamette Valley, Oregon; $30
Fossil & Fawn’s slogan is “odd and yummy,” which is a “perfect way to describe their wines,” says DeWyngaert. The husband-and-wife team behind this Willamette Valley winery takes a minimalist approach to winemaking (one of their other cuvées is aptly named “Do Nothing”). In this bottle, however, Pinot Gris upends any preconceived notions of what it must taste like. “This is such a great bottle to introduce people to the idea that grapes are not a monolith,” says DeWyngaert. Here, Pinot Gris grapes are macerated on the skins for 14 days—the same length of maceration as Fossil & Fawn’s Pinot Noir—and aged in neutral oak barrels, resulting in a vibrant wine that could pass for a light red.
Sei Querce ‘Six Oaks’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Alexander Valley, California; $75
Even though The Town Cellar features lesser-known producers and prioritizes sustainable farming practices, DeWyngaert is determined to show customers that this category of wines doesn’t have to be offbeat or strange. “This is my favorite wine to recommend to people who are looking for classic Cali Cab,” they say. The team at Sei Querce began making wines under this label in 2014 and has remained staunchly committed to organic farming, land conservation, and other sustainable practices. “It’s unusual to find a winery like this that’s really doing the right thing, but the wines still feel very classic,” says DeWyngaert, noting that this Cabernet Sauvignon easily satisfies those who want a generous wine with plenty of new French oak. “Not everything we have is super obscure or weird.”
Weingut Zahel Gemischter Satz Pét-Nat 2022, Vienna, Austria; $28
DeWyngaert is always scrutinizing the farming practices of the producers they carry, and recently, the Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) program has been their “holy grail standard.” It focuses on organic farming, building soil health, and prioritizing both wildlife and community. Weingut Zahel, located in Vienna, is the first ROC winery in Europe; here, they take the traditional Viennese concept of the field blend (“gemischter satz”) and turn it into a pét-nat. “Pét-nat is just starting to make a name for itself in Connecticut,” says DeWyngaert, who is adamant that this bottle is not flawed or “natty.” “It’s bright, refreshing, and easy to love.”
La Raia Gavi 2023, Piedmont, Italy; $24
From a fully regenerative, organic farm in Piedmont comes the La Raia Gavi, which is DeWyngaert’s go-to for anyone who requests a crisp, dry white like Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. “It’s such a nice example of how, when you do great farming and make a wine with care, you can take this neutral, somewhat unexciting grape like Cortese and make something really delicious,” they say. Though it has good complexity, it’s also really crowd-pleasing, DeWyngaert adds.
Kent Falls ‘Patio Chair’ Buckwheat Grisette, Kent, Connecticut; $10
Sold in a 750-milliliter bottle, this farmhouse ale actually comes from a 50-acre working farm. The farm is planted to an acre of hops (plus cider apples for partner distillery Neversink Spirits), but Kent Falls Brewing also works with other local farms to source grains and additional hops for its beers. “This beer is so universally enjoyable,” says DeWyngaert, who notes that it clocks in at just 4.5% ABV. It’s the kind of refreshing, light beer that will win over even the staunchest of wine lovers. “Beer can have terroir, it can have complexity, and it can be yummy and enjoyable,” they add.
Dispatch
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Courtney Schiessl Magrini is the editor-in-chief for SevenFifty Daily and the Beverage Media Group publications. Based in Brooklyn, she has held sommelier positions at some of New York’s top restaurants, including Marta, Dirty French, and Terroir, and her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, GuildSomm, Forbes.com, VinePair, EatingWell Magazine, and more. She holds the WSET Diploma in Wines. Follow her on Instagram at @takeittocourt.
