The 16 Breakout Wines of 2024

Reflecting on 2024 in the wine industry could be a disheartening task. The industry faced plenty of challenges, from declining consumption to devastating weather events and beyond. But it can also take a different tack, reflecting on the wines that consumers truly loved in 2024—especially the surprising, sleeper hits.

For many, unexpected bestsellers emerged from bottles that broke away from the pack; traditional wine programs found success with the rogue natural wine, and programs that didn’t shy away from the funk found that classically styled wines were hits. With selections from France to the U.S., Cyprus to Argentina, this year’s breakout wines demonstrate that there’s no shortage of adventurous drinkers—and wine professionals ready to serve them.

SevenFifty Daily polled 16 wine directors, sommeliers, retailers, and importers to find out which wines were the unexpected hits of the year, and why they soared above the rest. (All wines are listed with suggested retail price per bottle.)

Éric Texier St-Julien en St-Alban 2020, Rhône Valley, France; $30

Selected by Aaron Thompson, co-owner and wine director, Lilou Brasserie, Brother Wolf, and Osteria Stella, Knoxville, Tennessee

Lilou Brasserie, the newest addition to the Knoxville, Tennessee, restaurant lineup from co-owners Aaron Thompson and Jessica “Rabbit” King, opened its doors in January 2024 to serve up authentic French cuisine, with an exclusively French wine list to match. In its first year, Thompson, who is also Lilou’s wine director, says this Syrah from the St-Julien-en-St-Alban zone of the Côtes du Rhône has been an unexpected hit.

“We received our three-case allocation back in March for the first time and sold out quickly,” he says. When it came time to reorder, they asked importer Louis/Dressner for enough to pour it by the glass. Though Lilou’s list focuses on more classic styles, this bottle from Éric Texier, one of the region’s top natural wine producers, wins guests over with its “pop of black, brambly fruit supported with a vein of minerality and an easygoing freshness,” says Thompson.

Brand Riesling 2023 (1L), Pfalz, Germany; $21

Selected by Sipha Lam, owner, Wilder Wines, Burlington, Vermont

At Wilder Wines, owner Sipha Lam works to select wines from artisanal producers who use sustainable farming methods, like Brand, a northern Pfalz winery run by two brothers. Their one-liter bottling of dry Riesling has been a staple of Wilder Wines’ stock since the shop opened in 2021, and this year was no different. 

“It’s simply stunning, and offers incredible value,” says Lam. “It has a way with everyone—even those who claim they don’t like Riesling.” In 2024, Lam estimates that the shop sold more than 20 cases.

Tsiakkas ‘The Vagabond’ Pet Nat 2023, Lemesos, Cyprus; $20

Selected by Scott Stroemer, wine director, Galit and Cafe Yaya, Chicago

Middle Eastern wines dominate the wine list at Galit, which celebrates Middle Eastern cuisine. Wine director Scott Stroemer spotlights a bit of an oddball as the restaurant’s unexpected bestseller in 2024: Tsiakkas’s ‘The Vagabond,’ a red pet-nat made from the Mavro grape, which is the most-planted grape in Cyprus.

Initially, Stroemer didn’t see The Vagabond fitting at Galit, feeling it was screaming for “backyards and cocktail hour,” but later reconsidered. Since it was added to the by-the-glass list in late 2023, it’s sold two to three cases per week, partly thanks to its menu description: “chuggable pet-nat of ancient Cypriot red varietal.” “That does the trick, steering away those looking for traditional-method sparklers, inviting in the truly curious,” says Stroemer. “Also, a no-doubt staff favorite.”

Marioni Red Blend 2020, Sonoma Valley, California; $40

Selected by Lauren Feldman, co-owner, Valley Bar + Bottle, Sonoma, California

Lauren Feldman takes pride in the number of super local wines on the list at Valley Bar + Bottle. For instance, the official, communal tasting room for Marioni Wine, the producer of Valley’s breakout bottle of 2024, is just around the corner in downtown Sonoma. The Marioni Red Blend was first added to the wine bar and bottle shop’s list in August, selling through 12 cases until the winery was out of stock (though Feldman now has another Marioni wine on Valley’s list).

“I think there has been a real move back toward more classically styled, powerful wines—yes, even in the natural wine world,” says Feldman, who notes that this bottle often changes traditionalists’ perspective on natural wine. Plus, the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Zinfandel has aged “beautifully” over its four years in barrel and bottle. “People don’t think natural wine can age, but Dan [Marioni]’s wines prove them wrong,” says Feldman.

Quinta do Regueiro ‘Secreto’ Alvarinho Reserva 2023, Vinho Verde, Portugal; $17

Selected by Kristie Petrullo, owner, Scarsdale Wine Merchants, Scarsdale, New York

Scarsdale Wine Merchants owner Kristie Petrullo first poured Quinta do Regueiro’s ‘Secreto’ Alvarinho at the shop’s opening in November 2024, and the bottles haven’t stopped flying out the door. In the first month, Petrullo reports selling about nine cases of this value-driven Alvarinho.

“For a value-driven wine, this hits way above its weight,” she says. Extended lees contact, bâttonage, and some skin contact adds texture and complexity in a category that some consumers think of as simple and easy-drinking. “This wine satisfies those looking for something crisp and bright because it does have gorgeous acidity, but it also has a richness that others crave,” says Petrullo.

Champagne Ponson Premier Cru Brut NV, Champagne, France; $45

Selected by Will Taylor, beverage director, La Compagnie Centre Street and La Compagnie Flatiron, New York City

Delicious grower Champagnes aren’t a rarity at La Compagnie—the wine bar’s Centre Street location features no less than nine full pages of Champagne selections—but Champagne Ponson’s Premier Cru Brut proved to be a winner at both of the wine bar’s locations over the past year. Beverage director Will Taylor began pouring the Pinot Meunier-dominant cuvée by the glass in February 2024 and has sold 65 cases since.

“I think when you get such an incredible value from a glass of Champagne under $30, it’s easy to see why it’s been so popular for us,” says Taylor. “Winemaker Maxime Ponson puts an incredible amount of effort into every bottle of Champagne, starting at the vine. He manages to farm organically and still offer a wonderfully well-priced bottle of wine.”

Cantina Madonna delle Grazie ‘Leucònoe’ 2022, Basilicata, Italy; $23

Selected by Paula de Pano, owner, Rocks + Acid Wine Shop, Chapel Hill, North Carolina 

To keep the by-the-glass selection at Rocks + Acid Wine Shop fresh, owner Paula de Pano welcomes all of the shop’s distributors and importers to conduct a large tasting three or four times each year. There, she first tasted Cantina Madonna delle Grazie’s ‘Leucònoe,’ a white wine made from Aglianico—known for its hefty, tannic reds.

“The Latoracca family farms a massal selection of grapes that have bigger berries with thinner skins, which is best for this type of wine,” says de Pano. “In the glass, think of salty stone fruits—salted apricots and nectarines with a streak of acidity and smoky finish.” From January to September 2024, Rocks + Acid sold 12 cases of Leucònoe.

Progressive Wine Company Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Russian River Valley, California; $38

Selected by Hadley Douglas, cofounder, The Urban Grape, Boston and Washington, D.C.

Hadley and TJ Douglas have made a mark on the wine industry with their determination to make wine more accessible and inclusive, starting with their two locations of retail shop The Urban Grape. But several years ago, the duo decided to take their Progressive Scale—the shop’s way of organizing wine from light-bodied to full-bodied, demystifying the process of finding the right wine—and use it to launch a wine label. Progressive Wine Company’s 2023 vintage of Sauvignon Blanc “absolutely took off” this year at The Urban Grape, says Hadley Douglas, selling a whopping 150 cases in just seven months.

“We’ve been seeing this shift from New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc coming for a while, and this bottle seemed to capitalize on the change,” says Douglas, noting that it maintains bright acidity but leads with creamier, tropical flavors. “We’re seeing this trend across the whole Sauvignon Blanc category, not just with Progressive Wine Company’s offering.”

Iruai Wines ‘Shasta-Cascade’ White 2023, U.S.; $27

Selected by Conor McKee, co-owner, Whoopsie Daisy and Fiasco! Wine & Spirits, Brooklyn

Conor McKee, the co-owner of wine bar Whoopsie Daisy and retail shop Fiasco! Wine & Spirits in the Crown Heights neighborhood of Brooklyn, added the Iruai ‘Shasta-Cascade’ White to both establishments, and it’s proven to be a “great summer-fall-winter white,” he says. Iruai is based in the “California Alps,” as winemaker Chad Hinds calls them, in the far north of the state, and the Shasta-Cascade white was inspired by the wines of Jura and Savoie in the French Alps.

The fruit—a blend of Savagnin, Grüner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Savagnin Rose Musqué—comes from both California (Trinity Lakes) and Oregon (Rogue Valley and Applegate Valley). “The acidity is pretty electric, keeping you coming back for more,” says McKee. “I think because it’s such a great balance of playful and serious, it speaks to a lot of palates, and that’s why it’s been such a good mover for us.”

Pielihueso ‘Naranjo’ 2022, Uco Valley, Argentina; $25

Selected by Alex Cuper, wine director, Brasero and El Che, Chicago

When wine director Alex Cuper wrote the opening by-the-glass list for Brasero, a new Latin American restaurant from chef John Manion of Argentinian-style steakhouse El Che, he decided to skip the expected rosé and instead list an approachable orange wine. “I really wanted guests to venture outside of what they normally drink,” says Cuper. 

The wine, Pielihueso’s ‘Naranjo,’ has been a favorite among guests, with at least a case sold each week year-round. “I think this is the perfect introduction to orange wine,” says Cuper of the Torrontés, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc blend. “It offers all the qualities of an orange wine in a gentle and approachable way.”

Populis ‘Reversée’ 2023, Mendocino County, California; $24

Selected by Kaitlin Fischer, director of operations, The Harvey House, Madison, Wisconsin

“At our restaurant, we’ve always showcased classic wines from renowned producers,” says Kaitlin Fischer, the director of operations at The Harvey House, a restaurant that celebrates the rise of post-Prohibition supper clubs in the Midwest. In September 2024, however, the team added two wines from Populis, a project out of Mendocino county dedicated to organic farming and minimal intervention. “They’ve quickly become favorites” as glass pours, says Fischer.

Their unexpected bestseller among the reds is the Populis ‘Reversée,’ a blend of Carignan, Zinfandel, and Grenache made using a “reverse saignée” method, in which half of the grapes are pressed to rosé and added back to destemmed fruit for a lighter, fresher wine. Using the “bold, unfiltered red with vibrant red fruit flavors and earthy undertones” to introduce The Harvey House’s guests to natural wines has been “incredibly rewarding,” says Fischer. “They offer a unique and authentic experience, one that aligns with our passion for quality and exploration.”

I Custodi ‘Aetneus’ Etna Rosso 2016, Sicily, Italy; $45

Selected by Andy Fortgang, co-owner and wine director, Canard, Le Pigeon, and Flor Wines, Portland, Oregon

At Canard, the more casual of co-owner Andy Fortgang’s French-inspired restaurants, the breakout wine of the year was, in fact, Italian. The I Custodi ‘Aetneus’ Etna Rosso is the flagship, old-vine wine founded by Mario Paoluzi and crafted by Salvo Foti, who has been key in bringing world-class winemaking back to Etna.

“When we tasted it with staff, it showed really well, and they got excited about it,” says Fortgang. It helps that the blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio remains well priced despite high demand for wines from Etna. “It also landed at a great price point and style for pairing with lots of dishes from the menu,” says Fortgang, who lists it for $60 per bottle.

Julien Meyer ‘Grittematte’ Riesling 2021, Alsace, France; $42

Selected by Devon Magee, founder, Offshore Wines, Oakland, California

Devon Magee founded Offshore Wines in 2017 with the goal of importing small, “unscalable” producers making truly excellent wines, and the California importer’s portfolio has stayed true to that ethos, with a curated selection of French and Spanish wines. One of Offshore’s unexpected bestsellers was the Julien Meyer ‘Grittematte’ Riesling, an Alsatian bottle that “happily defies preconceived notions about Riesling,” even for those who know and love the grape.

“Because it’s grown on a south-facing slope in deep soils with a deep, solid source of water, the wine itself is ripe and textured while still holding onto Riesling’s signature knife edge acidity,” says Magee. Since the wine arrived in October, Magee has sold 11 cases—all but three cases of Offshore’s allocation.

Malvirà ‘Selected by Amanti Vino’ Langhe Nebbiolo 2020, Piedmont, Italy; $26 

Selected by Sharon Sevrens, owner, Amanti Vino, Montclair and Morristown, New Jersey

At Amanti Vino, Malvirà’s Langhe Nebbiolo is a go-to pairing recommendation, working with everything from lamb to mushrooms and even pizza. It’s been a breakout hit because once customers try it, they fall in love.

“It’s surreal how many times people grab a bottle on the way to dinner and come back right after for a case,” says proprietor Sharon Sevrens, who first tried the wine at Vinitaly and worked with the winery to put their shop’s label on it. “It’s an absolute steal for fans of Barolo and Barbaresco who want something to drink now.” Since adding the Malvirà to shelves in late 2023, Amanti Vino has sold a whopping 500 cases.

Walter Scott ‘La Combe Verte’ Chardonnay 2022, Willamette Valley, Oregon; $35

Selected by Ole Thompson, wine director, Esquin Wine and Downtown Spirits, Seattle

Long overshadowed by the region’s excellent Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Chardonnay is now making headlines and winning over consumers—including those at Esquin Wine and Downtown Spirits, says wine director Ole Thompson. This is especially true for the wines of Walter Scott, which has emerged as one of the region’s foremost Chardonnay specialists. 

“With a price in the mid-30s, it isn’t cheap, but when you compare with the prices of Chardonnays from other famous Chardonnay-producing regions and a similar quality level, it’s a bargain,” says Thompson, who describes the La Combe Verte as nervy, minerally, and focused. Esquin Wine sold 18 cases of the wine in 2024.

Saint Hills ‘Mala Nevina’ 2023, Istria, Croatia; $23

Selected by Juliana Lee, general manager, Bar167, Charleston, South Carolina

The Saint Hills ‘Mala Nevina’ has been a heavy hitter at Bar167 for more than a year, says general manager Juliana Lee. “This wine seems to satisfy everyone who tries it,” she says. The Croatian blend of Malvazija Istriana and Chardonnay combines floral aromas, tropical fruit, and freshness on the finish.

These qualities make the Mala Nevina just a good of a pairing for a summery, seafood-heavy menu as it is for a winter dinner. “This is a wine I’m ordering twice a week, on average,” says Lee. “When guests are looking for our staff favorites, the Mala is always on that list.”

Courtney Schiessl Magrini is the editor-in-chief for SevenFifty Daily and the Beverage Media Group publications. Based in Brooklyn, she has held sommelier positions at some of New York’s top restaurants, including Marta, Dirty French, and Terroir, and her work has appeared in Wine Enthusiast, GuildSomm, Forbes.com, VinePair, EatingWell Magazine, and more. She holds the WSET Diploma in Wines. Follow her on Instagram at @takeittocourt.