The history of wine is filled with examples of strong, innovative women. In Champagne alone, Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin Clicquot perfected the art of riddling; Louise Pommery is credited with inventing Brut Champagne, and Lily Bollinger ran the eponymous house for decades.
In the U.S., the first female winemaker on record was Hannah Weinberger of Napa Valley, who took over cellar duties after her husband died in 1882. But women’s contributions to winemaking over time have been immeasurable. During World War II, for example, women took over viticultural duties in European vineyards while many men went to war. Without them, family businesses and legacy vineyards would have been wiped out.
Despite these centuries-long contributions, women winemakers still comprise a minority of the industry. In a 2020 study by professors Lucia and John Gilbert at Santa Clara University, women winemakers made up just 14 percent of the California wine industry. International data is even harder to come by. However, a new generation of women winemakers are building upon the work of their predecessors, while carving out a distinct niche. And organizations such as Women for WineSense and Women of the Vine and Spirits, and events such as the Women in Wine Leadership Symposium continue to champion women in the industry.
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In honor of Women’s History Month, SevenFifty Daily spoke with buyers across the country about wines made by women winemakers that they’re excited about right now. (All wines are listed with suggested retail price per bottle.)
Ficomontanino ‘Noble Kara’ Toscana Rosato 2023, Tuscany, Italy; $30
Selected by Charlotte Mirzoeff, general manager and wine director, Forsythia, New York City
At Forsythia, a Roman restaurant in New York’s Lower East Side, Charlotte Mirzoeff highlights Italian winemakers with a mission. “We champion winemakers concerned with sustainability and the preservation of our environment, and who uphold and respect tradition while embracing the evolution of the wine world,” she says. One winemaker who epitomizes Mirzeoff’s mission is Maria Sole at Ficomontanino. “I was immediately struck by her wines, her ingenuity, and her deep pride in the region which is technically Tuscany but, as she says, spiritually Umbria and Lazio as well (her winery falls very close to where these three regions intersect),” says Mirzeoff. “To me, she represents a greater theme across Italy right now—roots in tradition, honoring familial and generational values, while making modern, restrained wines that take care of and respect the earth.”
Mirzoeff also seeks wines that work across Forsythia’s tasting and a la carte menus and elevate the entire dining experience. “The Noble Kara is a rosato-style Sangiovese,” she says. “It is juicy and fun with a savory, herbal backbone. It satisfies the need for complexity and balance with the reminder that wine is joyful.”
Elena Walch Gewürztraminer 2023, Alto Adige, Italy; $35
Selected by Autumn Gilliam, owner, The Adventurous Sip, and consultant, Pereira’s Wine & Whiskey Lounge, Rochester, Minnesota
Autumn Gilliam immediately wanted to include this multigenerational, women-run winery on the list for the grand opening of Pereira’s Wine & Whiskey Lounge in Rochester, Minnesota, in early February. “This producer is a favorite of mine,” says Gilliam. When Elena Walch, an architect, married her husband, she took over his family winery and transformed it into one of the most well-respected estates in the region. Today, “the fifth-generation daughters are taking the helm and moving this traditional establishment forward with sustainability in all areas from the vineyard, cellar, and packaging,” says Gilliam.
Among the winery’s diverse offerings, aromatic Gewürztraminer is a standout for Gilliam. “I love this wine,” she says. “The bouquet is classic Gewürtztraminer with roses and spices. The wine has great acidity and provides a great lift, which is classic Alto Adige. The lees aging helps round out the mouthfeel to balance the wine. It’s a delight as an aperitif but also a great match for lots of foods.”
Âmevive Grenache 2023, Alisos Canyon, Santa Barbara; $34
Selected by Sally Stewart, owner, Denver Wine Merchant, Denver, Colorado
Sally Stewart has been in the wine industry since she was 16 years old, later finding her calling as a sommelier. Diagnosed with ALS at the age of 32, she opened Denver Wine Merchants with her husband, Stephen Washuta, in 2020, as a way to continue working in her field. “I’m profoundly grateful to still be doing what I love, now from my wheelchair,” says Stewart. “Denver Wine Merchant is the culmination of a lifetime spent exploring what makes wine truly extraordinary.”
One of her and her customers’ favorites is the Grenache from Âmevive. “This wine represents everything I love about California wine,” says Stewart. “It is from a biodynamically farmed vineyard (Martian Ranch Vineyard) in the Alisos Canyon AVA in Santa Barbara. [Winemaker] Alice Anderson understands the importance of farming to produce an exceptional wine. Her wines have purity and elegance and perfectly capture California sunshine.”
Kelley Fox ‘Nerthus’ 2022, Willamette Valley, Oregon; $17
Selected by Ryan Lotz, beverage director, Traveler Street Hospitality, Boston
As the beverage director for Traveler Street Hospitality in Boston, Ryan Lotz oversees the wine and bar programs for four (soon to be five) concepts. At Bar Mezzana, a coastal Italian restaurant, Lotz loves how the Kelley Fox ‘Nerthus’ 2022 works with the crudo and handmade pasta the restaurant is known for. “Nerthus, in particular, is so great with such a broad swath of food,” explains Lotz. “It’s a masterclass in balance. Kelley treats each of the grapes here differently and blends to a whole that is truly greater than the sum of its parts. I just love everything she does.”
Lotz thinks this wine exemplifies the creative potential of the wine industry. “It’s got a really cool, not quite orange, not quite rosé, not quite white, but somehow all-of-those-things-at-once vibe. In a world where we’re moving further and further from putting things in neat and tidy categories, this wine makes a great case for thinking outside the box.”
SPONSORED PICK
Drop of Sunshine
With over 25 years of experience, Sarah Bakx has become a force for positive change at Treasury Wine Estates (TWE)—and for the wine industry at large. As the president of Bold Brands, an innovation pipeline and market disrupter within TWE’s Americas Division, Bakx is pushing boundaries to redefine what it means to connect through wine. As a successful woman in the wine industry, Bakx also serves as a mentor to female colleagues at every stage of their careers, advocating for a supportive and respectful workplace for all women.
Now, under Bakx’s leadership, TWE has partnered with Candle Media’s Hello Sunshine, a multi-channel media company founded by Reese Witherspoon, to create a new lifestyle wine, Drop of Sunshine. The female-led brand, which includes a California Chardonnay, sparkling rosé, and red blend, is inspired by Hello Sunshine’s mission to empower women. “Drop of Sunshine is all about elevating women’s voices, sharing women’s stories, and connecting over the things that bring us together,” says Bakx.
Gonzales Wine Company ‘Oasis Vineyard’ White Malbec 2023, Portland, Oregon; $25
Selected by Jamila Conley, founder, WeRise Wines, Seattle
After spending 25 years in technology, business transformation, and strategic leadership executive roles, Jamila Conley channeled her passion for change into WeRise Wines, a bottle shop and wine bar that spotlights diverse and underrepresented winemakers.
A favorite on the list is the white Malbec from Cristina Gonzales of Gonzales Wine Company. Gonzales was one of the earliest winemakers at AVP Wine Collective, a reimagined custom crush facility in Portland, Oregon. She is now the program coordinator for its incubator program, which guides new and aspiring—and often underrepresented—winemakers through the entire winemaking process. “I love this wine because the flavor profile isn’t something you commonly find,” says Conley. “Her low-intervention techniques really bring out the character of the grapes. Once you try it, you will love it.”
Souleil Vin De Bonté Le Rosé 2023, Vin de France; $16.99
Selected by Jamie Boss, beverage director, Central Park Boathouse, New York City
As one of New York City’s iconic venues, The Central Park Boathouse attracts a wide variety of both tourists and locals. With such a diverse audience in mind, Jamie Boss takes a democratic approach to her list. “Our wine program is designed to reflect that good wine is for everyone and every budget, with a focus on France, Italy, and North America,” she says.
On warm days, the Boathouse and its outdoor space prove to be especially popular. To Boss, Souleil Le Rosé, served both by the glass and bottle, is ideal for the setting. The brand is a passion project for wine public relations professional Marianne Fabre-Lanvin. Working with an oenologist, the French native selects the juice and creates the blends to produce a fresh and quaffable style that is popular in the south of France. “Souleil Le Rosé is incredibly vibrant and zesty while maintaining a delightfully refreshing elegance,” she says. “It is a perfect wine for sitting on a dock and enjoying ample sunshine.”
Fossil and Fawn ‘Dark Wave’ 2023, Willamette Valley, Oregon; $35
Selected by Sande Friedman, wine director, Di Bruno Bros., Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Sande Friedman oversees wine for specialty food retailer and importer Di Bruno Bros. Along with purchasing from wineries for its five retail locations and catering divisions, she created the Di Bruno Bros.’ private label series, which showcases the producer front and center. Through the collaboration, she grew close with Fossil and Fawn’s winemaker Jenny Mosbacher. “She was by far one of my favorite people that I’ve worked with,” says Friedman.
Beyond their private label wine, one of Friedman’s standing favorites is the Fossil and Fawn ‘Dark Wave.’ “This is one of the best domestic takes that I’ve seen paying homage to Passetoutgrains,” she says. “Dark Wave is a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA of the Willamette Valley, from a dry-farmed, family-run site with volcanic soils. The fruit was whole cluster co-fermented and matured for 10 months in a mix of neutral French and Oregon oak barrels. It’s just a really gorgeous and interesting wine, with loads of stemmy structure and supple fruit, held in check with nervy acidity.”
Dispatch
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Shana Clarke is a wine, sake, and travel writer, and the author of 150 Vineyards You Need To Visit Before You Die. Her work has appeared in Saveur, Fortune, NPR, Wine Enthusiast, and Hemispheres. She was shortlisted for the Louis Roederer 2020 International Wine Writers’ Awards and ranked one of the “Top 20 U.S. Wine Writers That Wineries Can Work With” by Beverage Trade Network in 2021. She holds a Level 3 Advanced Certificate from Wine & Spirit Education Trust and is a Certified Sake Sommelier. She will always say yes to a glass of Champagne. Learn more at www.shanaspeakswine.com and follow her @shanaspeakswine.
